HM Medical Clinic

Aom_acne3_05

Any acne therapyhas three goals: first, to kill the Propionibacteri-um acnes; second, to reduceinflammation; and, third, toprevent the sebaceous glandsfrom producing excess oil, clog-ging the pores and creating anenvironment that allows the P.
acnes bacteria to flourish. Untilrecently most moderate tosevere acne has been treated bydermatologists with a combina-tion of antibiotics to kill thebacteria and drying agents likeAccutane and topical retinoidsto control excess oiliness.
Recent research has poked some serious holes into two der-matological staples for treatingacne: One study that appearedin a February, 2004, edition ofJournal of the American MedicalAssociation pointed to a strongassociation between long-termand/or frequent use of antibi-otics and the incidence of breastcancer. And earlier this year,when a Congressman's sonbeing treated with Accutanecommitted suicide, the public By Linda Kossoff and became aware of a seven-year-old FDA warning linking use of Linda W. Lewis All
the powerful drug with seriousdepression. And these risks werein addition to the existing con-cern that overuse of antibioticswas contributing to resistantstrains of bacteria and thenumerous less serious side effectsassociated with the use of both antibiotics and Accutane.

Fortunately, many doctors and by water in the skin. As the light pene- estheticians are cautiously optimistic trates, it generates heat, creating a ther- that they've found less risky alternatives.
mal injury that alters the structure and These range from sophisticated lasers function of the sebaceous glands. This that can be used only by physicians to drastically reduces acne lesions without ultrasonic and LED devices now being significant side effects.
used in many day spas, as well as a range At the Westside Medical Spa in of promising nutritional regimens and Westwood, California, Dr. Alexander topical treatments.
Rivkin, uses a pulsed-light system from DAYSPA editors have Palomar Medical Technologies and a taken a close look at some vitamin A gel to treat acne with photo- of the new equipment- dynamic therapy (PDT).
based therapies and at the "I am seeing extremely impressive evolving home care prod- results with my acne patients," reports ucts that are an important Rivkin. "Their skin is staying clear for part of any treatment plan.
several years after treatment, and that'senough time so that, for a good number of people, the acne doesn't recur.
In November 2003, the Unlike with Accutane, there are no Smoothbeam diode laser, serious side effects to worry about, no made by Candela Corp., monthly blood tests for pregnancy or LumiFacials trigger skin cell repairs
became the first laser approved by the liver damage, no prolonged discomfort.
that can completely clear breakouts.
FDA to treat facial acne. Lasers like the Yet the efficacy is very similar." Superior Skin Secrets Salon in Arizona
Smoothbeam emit a 1,450 nm wave- One of Rivkin's patients, who had achieved outstanding results with this
client after only six treatments.
length of light that's strongly absorbed been treated with antibiotics including Abbe Labs End-Zit product regimen incorporates active ingre-
Cream, Night Cream and Mask. Gentle astringents witch dients such as zinc oxide sulfur, talc, camphor, alpha hydroxy hazel and horsetail extract are paired with vitamin E; tea tree acids, salicylic acid and botanicals. The line includes a oil and sodium shale oil sulfonate keep bacteria from spread- Drying Lotion that's available in six tints, as well as Blemish ing. Contact: 888/222-6791; www.babor.com.
Control Toner, Cleanser, Mask and Moisturizer. Contact: Bio Jouvance The BioClarifying line emphasizes detoxifica-
tion and healing with consistent use of antioxidants in the Atzen (distributed by Universal Companies) The Purifiante
product formulas. Two Gel Cleansers contain different levels Skin Purifying System consists of natural, gel-based products of alpha hydroxy acid; other products in the line, such as the that contain no drying agents. Instead, cornflower, algae, Gel Masque, offer a rich mix of botanicals. Antioxidant vita- pollen extract, birch, yeast, zinc, hyaluronic acid, vitamin A mins are used throughout. Contact: 800/272-1716; and silk amino acids are called into play. The system includes AM and PM Cleansing Gels; AM and PM Purifying Biodroga Systems The Puran Formula System for Impure
Toners and Gels; Purifying Peeling exfoliant; Mask; AM and Problem Skin consists of Cleansing Emulsion, Purifying PM Moisturizing Gel and SP Gel for Breakouts. Contact: Lotion, Regulating Crèmes I and II, Day Crème Tinted and Covering Stick. Ingredients include zinc, allatonin.
Aveda Balancing Infusion for Oily Skin/Acne takes a preven-
licorice and salicylic acid. Contact: 800/972-5016; tive approach; it's formulated with flower and plant essences like lemon, lime, juniper and lavender to control surface oils BiON offers an extensive range of products for acne vulgaris,
and normalize oily skin before breakouts can occur. Yet, it cystic acne, acne rosacea and folliculitis barbae. These can soothe blemished skin and work as a spot treatment.
include several formulations of cleansers, follicle-clearing Contact: 800/328-0849; www.aveda.com. products, masks and specialty treatments. Active ingredients Babor The PURE product system performs a gentle balancing
include salicylic acid, green tea and aloe vera. Contact: act to calm and clear the skin. Products include a Day

ning. PDT using wavelengths in thevisible spectrum have proven effectivefor a wide range of dermatologic prob-lems, including acne.
"Unlike the early devices, which used only blue light or red light, Soli-Tone uses four color wavelenghts fromthe visible spectrum," says DanielleTsoklis, director of education, Silhouet- Tone USA. "During the year and a halfwe tested the device before bringing it to market, we discovered that using multiple colors produced a better effect.
tetracycline for seven years and yet Different wavelengths affect the skin in 12 treatments over a
continued to have outbreaks, was different ways. While blue light reacts four-week period. The
completely clear after one series of with a metabolic byproduct of P. acne client rests comfortably
PDT treatments. "The results are far to produce singlet oxygen, which then for each treatment.
and away beyond my expectations," kills the bacteria, red light has an anti- says Rivkin. "Lasers will continue to inflammatory effect and speeds healing.
play an increasingly important role in Yellow light increases lymphatic flow to One PDT patient the treatment of acne." evacuate waste products, and greenlight decreases melanin production, LED Devices
reduces pigmentation and helps elimi- In July 2003, Alderm LLC received clear after FDA approval for the first LED System Soli-Tone LumiFacial treatments to treat acne. The OmniLu light-emit- are recommended for clients with mild one series of ting diode used a panel of LEDs to to moderate acne. The recommended deliver pure blue light (415 nm) to the initial treatment regimen is 10 ses- treatments. skin. LED devices have come a long sions, twice each week for five weeks, way in the 18 months since that begin- then one per month as maintenance.
Candela Corp. offers the Smoothbeam Laser. Contact them via
BP Gel 5% with Tea Tree Oil round out the mix. Contact: Charme, a division of Mikuni American Corp. offers the
Dermalogica The company's acne-prone product series looks to
Charme Skincare System. Contact: 888/505-7975; control oil without drying out the skin. Triclosan, salicylic acid and www.charmerenew.com. aloe vera work together to accomplish this. Products include: Anti- Control Corrective Skincare (distributed by Universal
Bac Skin Wash, Multi-Active Toner, Oil Control Lotion, Medicated Companies) This company's Acne/Oily Skin line seeks to
Clearing Gel, Gentle Cream Exfoliant and Anti-Bac Cooling address skin surface buildup while purifying, normalizing and Masque. Contact: 800/611-SKIN; www.dermalogica.com.
disinfecting skin. There are more than 20 products available for Dermapro offers an acne healing cream containing benzoyl
this skin type and they feature the active ingredients benzoyl peroxide 6%, vitamins K and E, aloe vera and green tea.
peroxide, salicylic and alpha hydroxy acids, sulfur and Contact: 866/387-1241; www.dermapro.com.
retinol. Contact: 800/558-5571; www.controlcorrective.com; DermaQuest Skin Therapy relies upon the proven power
of benzoyl peroxide for its Acne Therapeutic Line but has DDF takes the approach that acne is primarily caused by hor-
combined it with ingredients like tea tree oil to minimize mones and genes. To counteract these inevitabilities, it offers sev- any harsh effects. Products include Azalaic Acid Cream, eral cleansers—Salicylic Wash, Blemish Foaming Cleanser, Clarifying Acne Mask, Acne Pads, Blemish Gel, Facial Pumice Acne and Medicated Skin Cleanser (containing 5% ben- Scrub and Enzyme Cleanser. Contact: 800/213-8100; zoyl peroxide). A Sulfur Therapeutic Mask, Spot Treatment and LumiFacial treatments can also target hyperpigmentation,redness and photoaging.
"Lasers create thermal damage to help control acne; light simply triggers skin cells to repair what's wrong," says Tsoklis.
"Effectiveness of the acne treatments range from completelyclear skin to moderate improvement, depending on the typeof acne, lifestyle considerations and home care. The reactionfrom clients is wonderful. We've never had such high satis-faction ratings from our customers." Another machine from Canada, the Max7 LED system from Flip4, features seven preprogrammed polychromatictreatments, ranging in wavelengths from 400 to 700 nm.
The specific treatment for acne works with four specificwavelengths—violet, green, red and yellow—to destroyacne-causing bacteria. Some patients report significantimprovements after only two or three sessions, but the com-pany recommends 12 treatments over a four-week period.
"We have added Max7 to our Acne Solution Treatment, which incorporates our Rose de Mer herbs to slough andresolve acne lesions, encouraging circulation and oxygen tofight bacteria. Extractions are followed by a clinical spray ofoxygen and then Max7 is used on the moist skin surface for20 minutes to further reduce bacteria and help with skin DermaSound is distributed in the U.S. by Glymed Plus.
Contact: 800/676-9667; www.glymedplus.com.
Dermazone Solutions The company's key acne line, O*Plex
is named after its key ingredient, Complex Origanum, distilled
from fresh oregano. The Acne Treatment System, consisting of
O*Plex Wash, Mist and Control controls sebum without dry-
ing or irritating skin. Contact: 800/253-5115; www.derma-
zone.com.
Dr. Irena Eris has created its Pharmaceris line especially for
oily and acne-prone skin. A natural approach is evident in the
ingredients, which include burdock extract, zinc, biotin, extract
from the African tarmarind tree, azaleic acid, allantoin,
almond oil, cucumber juice and algae extract. The line consists
of Gentle Foam Cleanser; Salicam Anti-Acne Mask; Octopirox
Cream Treatment; Sebostatic Cream; Body Balm and
Cleansing Body Gel. Contact: 800/999-9419; www.eris.pl.
Echo2 offers its Oxyceuticals Acne Treatment System in profes-
sional and home versions. The system combines salicylic acid,
lactic acid and pure oxygen with aloe vera, licorice, witch
hazel and tea tree oil. The line includes a cleanser, medicat-
ed exfoliating astringent, UV protector and oxygen-enriched
calming lotion. Contact: 800/592-3246;
www.echo2plus.com.
Edge Systems offers the UltraMax Ultrasonic Skincare System.
Contact: 800/603-4996; www.edgesystem.net.

During treatments which last 31 minutes, the patient lies com-
fortably while the Max7 illuminates the acne, causing the acne
bacteria to self-destruct, while having no effect on the normal
skin. Protective eyewear is used during all LED treatment.
sensitivity," says Bella Schneider, founder and CEO ofLaBelle Day Spas & Salons. "Clients have been extremelyhappy with the results, reporting that they have seen signifi-cantly less redness and hyperpigmentation in their skin." There are a host of new LED devices hitting the spa mar- ket, including the MediLite from Inner ACT, Revitalightfrom Skincare Systems and Dermajoule from Bella Products.
All of our experts noted that, as with any new technology,it's important to purchase with care. "The most importantconsideration is the reputation of the company behind the Equibal/The Body Perfect offers its extensive Blemfree line
The Serious Action Masque pairs ancient herbs and tea tree for face and body. Chamomile and goldenseal are extract with salicylic acid. The similarly formulated NOONER used throughout the line; Triclosan appears in the spot wipes help clients on the go. The take-home Action Pac controlling product. The line includes: Foaming Scrub & ranges in formulation, using benzoyl peroxide and salicylic Beads; Mineral Clay Mask; All Day Lotion; Overnight with natural ingredients in varying degrees. Contact: Cream; Toner/Balancer; Blemish Relief; Deep Cleansing Peel Mask; Body Splash. Contact: 800/247-2405; Hormeta The Oily and Acneic Skin Line introduces hydration
while it controls sebum, using a unique delivery system. Tea Europro Equipment LLC offers three types of equipment to
tree oil is introduced in cyclodextrins, molecules that allow for address acne. The Cold Laser uses targeted laser light and a gradual release for optimize penetration in the skin. The electrical energy. The Dreamlight LED device addresses acne emptied cyclodextrins then absorb excess sebum. Other key as well as hyperpigmentation and rosacea. The Dealight uses ingredients in the Anti-Shine Day Cream, Fluid Cream and intense pulsed light technology that can be precisely cus- Mattifying Serum include fennel extract, a mineral complex tomized to the patient's needs. Contact: 800/272-1716; and glycolic acid. Contact: 888/435-5022; 5 Star Formulators turns to its Christina line to offer the
Inner ACT MediLite LED device mixes red and blue
Comodex A.C.N.E. Take-Home Method. Products containing wavelengths to offer computerized treatments for acne and anti-oxidants such as vitamins A, B and C plus alpha hydroxy other skincare problems. Contact: 888/212-6342; acids include Cleansing Gel; Day Treatment; Night Treatment; Drying Gel. Contact: 888/200-3977; www.5starformula- IntaglioSkin offers a AHA Glycolic Acid Treatment containing
8% AHA glycolic acid and 2% salicylic acid to optimize oil Flip4 offers the Max7 LED system. Contact: 450/649-4244;
reduction and exfoliation while keeping follicles open and controlling bacteria. Products include an astringent, antiseptic GlyMed Plus The company offers a wide selection of acne-
exfoliant, resurfacing gel, vitamin A emollient and day lotion.
fighting products in increasing grades depending on severity.
Contact: 800/227-2220; www.Intaglioskin.com.

product," notes Tsoklis. "You can't judge the strength andpurity of the light just by looking." [We'll have more about thesedevices and their multitude of uses in the May issue.-Ed.] "In the spa environment, the most effective clinical treat-ment for acne, hands down, is the DermaSound ultrasonictreatment and GlyMed Plus acne products," says ChristineHeathman, president of Glymed Plus, U.S. distributor forDermaSound. "The DermaSound works on the same princi-ple as the SonaCare toothbrush. You can actually see thesound waves working to force the oil out of the sebaceousfollicle. The blade of the unit moves back and forth in a‘peeling' motion, causing pressure to build up around thesebaceous gland, squeezing the sebum and its bacteria tothe surface where it is punctured and killed." Heathman says the DermaSound also has an anti- inflammatory effect, but they are still working to discoverthe mechanism behind this action. The treatment is alsogentle and calming, and increases the effectiveness of anyskincare preparations used.
"I've been so impressed with the results achieved with the DermaSound in the spas we work with, and our firsthandexperience has been confirmed in a clinical study," saysHeathman. Merrit M. DeBartolo and H. M. DeBartolo, Jr.,M.D., J.D., a practicing plastic surgeon in Chicago, studied1,000 patients, utilizing split-face and matched pairs to testthe effect of the DermaSound D2O and distilled water ultra- sound media. Acne patients showed 98% improvement. Adding elec-
systems like
Charme to
allows you to
offer clients a
totally new
Low pH Water Device
One device, Charme from Mikuni American Corp., bridgesthe gap between the treatment room and home care foracne vulgaris. In a 2004 clinical study sponsored by theMikuni Corp. and published in the February 2004 issue ofCosmetic Dermatology, a test group used the CharmeSkincare System, which delivers a 40-micron mist of lowpH acidic water through electrolysis, over an eight-weekperiod on only one side of the face. An impressive 100% ofparticipants showed an improvement of 25% or more byweek eight, with 75% indicating they preferred the systemto traditional topical medications.
Low pH water has been used in the treatment of skin conditions including psoriasis, eczema and rosacea. It actsas an astringent by tightening the skin and improving bar-rier function. It has been used worldwide for disinfectionpurposes in many industries.
The study concluded: "Charme is most effective in combating inflammatory acne and is, therefore, a possiblealternative to oral/topical antibiotics in the managementof this condition." Adding electrolyzed water systems like Charme to your spa allows you to offer clients a totally new realm of Jan Marini Skin Research uses glycolic acid as its primary
treatment and acid-gel (for Level II only). Contact: 866/314- weapon against acne in its Bioglycolic Line. The principle is based on this ingredient's ability to loosen "glue-like" attach- M'lis uses a total body approach to treat acne that encour-
ments that are characteristics of skin conditions like acne.
ages clients to detoxify their systems through improved diet, The line includes a cleansing gel, facial lotion with and with- hydration, exercise and supplements in addition to receiving out SPF and acne gels in two levels, both containing sali- professional treatments. The company's natural renewal skin- cylic in addition to the glycolic acid. Contact: 800/347- care philosophy includes an Acne Program designed to detoxify and nourish the skin. Contact: 800/548-0569; Joey New York clears things up and cools them down with
its Pure Pore line of products containing salicylic acid, vita- Murad The company's latest offering in the acne treatment
min C, camphor, eucalyptus, menthol, peppermint oil, titani- arena is its Acne Complex Kit, which represents its current um dioxide and sulfur. The line includes a Blackhead approach toward focusing on the inflammatory aspects of the Remove and Pore Minimizer Gel; Cleansing Gel; Oil-Free disorder. Triclosan, glycolic and salicylic acids, retinol and Moisturizer, Crushed Almonds and Honey Scrub; Chin arnica are found in the line that includes Clarifying Cleanser; Breakout Relief and more. Contact: 800/563-9691; Exfoliating Acne Treatment Gel; Acne Spot Treatment; and Skin Perfecting Lotion. Additional products beyond the kit are Mark Lees Skin Care recommends its take-home protocol
available. On the professional level, the Clarifying Enzyme containing sulfur, salicylic acid, glycolic, resorcinol and ben- Facial uses natural, effective anti-inflammatory agents to zoyl peroxide. The extensive line includes cleanser, toners, address acne. Contact: 800/242-1103; www.murad.com.
hydrators, masks and spot treatments for morning and night Nelly De Vuyst Among the company's Corrective Treatment
use. Contact: 800/447-5770, www.marklees.com.
Lines is one that seeks to arrest acne with a soothing, purifying Medicalia The Medi-Clear line of products contains salicylic,
approach. Yeast extract, B-glucan, St. John's Wort, chamomile, azelaic, glycolic and lactic acid along with fennel oil and lavender, sage; and hazelnut, apricot, lemon and calendula chamomile to soothe. It's available in Levels I or II depend- oils are all components in this system. Contact:800/633- ing on severity, and includes cleanser, toner, cream, spot antimicrobial and hydrating service treatments and retailthe affordable devices for home care.
Today's product-based approaches to treating acne arebased on a broader knowledge base, and while they don'toutright reject conventional treatments, they do recognizethe flaws in some of the methods used years ago.
Underlying all of these approaches is the commonsenseunderstanding that has not changed: To be healthy, skinand pores must be kept clean, and skin needs to be exfoli-ated, hydrated and protected from the effects of the sun.
Also, it's understood that one essential aspect of treatingacne is the client's cooperation in following properly pre-scribed home care. The role of the skincare professional istwo-fold: to administer treatments, and to educate andguide his/her acne clients in the ongoing control of theircondition. Approach #1: Whole Body Thinking. What should a
professional take into consideration when trying to arrest acase of acne? "I like to look at everything—age, stress level,hormones, even make-up use," says Dr. Mark Lees, presidentand product developer for Mark Lees Skin Care. "I call it a‘whole-listic' approach. Let's face it, if you only treat theacne spots and nothing else, you won't get anywhere." Often included in this approach are dietary considera- tions in which possible nutritional deficienciesand allergies are consid- ered. A skincare profes- sional might counsel aclient to eliminate orreduce foods shown to This woman's
grade III acne
was cleared
after three
months of
Glymed Plus'
Serious Action
Acne product
use, plus
in-clinic treat-
ments. The
woman then
quit her job as
an x-ray
technician—to
become an
esthetician!
stimulate sebaceous glands and to increase foods contain-ing vitamin A. Supplements to benefit the skin havebecome staples in some skincare regimens. Murad, Inc.
reports great results with acne clients who used its Pure SkinClarifying Supplement, which contains high levels of vita-min A, beta carotine and vitamins B-1 through B-6 amongmany other ingredients. "We saw a 55% reduction in lesionsin just six weeks," states Dr. Howard Murad, founder.
M'Lis is committed to the whole-body approach, and has developed its entire acne program around the impor-tance of detoxification, hydration, dietary modification,supplementation and exercise, in addition to professionaland homecare treatments. The company's Essential FattyAcid supplement contains evening primrose oil and organ-ic flax seed oil to heal the skin. And Heathman of GlyMedPlus believes that antioxidants taken in supplement formhelp to "build the skin from within to produce healthyconnective tissue." The company's Body Smart line ofnutritionals includes an Acne Formula supplement thatcontains zinc and vitamins E and C.
Approach #2: Smart Formulations. Many of today's
acne products are based on proven ideas about arrestingthe spread of bacteria and controlling the overproduction Palomar Medical Technologies offers intense-pulsed light
eucalyptus, gotu kola, green tea and meadowsweet.
lasers. Contact: 800/PALOMAR; www.palomarmedical.com.
Phytomer recommends its OligoPur line for acneic condi-
Sothys Maintain: Correcting Professional Treatment treats
tions. An enzymatic exfoliant, algae extract, Ac phycosac- acneic clients with active plant ingredients, almond proteins, charide and panthenol head up the arsenal of ingredients in licorice extract and menthol. The company's home care regi- this line, which include cleansing, toning and anti-blemish men includes: Sebum Regulating Institute Treatment; Hydra- gels, mask, serum, moisturizer and emulsion. Contact: matt Fluid; Active Cream; Absorbent Mask; and Oil-Control Serum. Contact: 800/325-0503; www.sothys-usa.com.
Repêchage offers a European Acne Facial professional treat-
Thalgo discourages sebum production with its
ment and home care that includes a Clear Complexion Re-Balancing Skin Treatment line containing laminaria Drying Lotion with organic sulfur, camphor and zinc oxide.
seaweed extract, which inhibits the activity of the Silhouet-Tone offers the Soli-Tone LED skincare system.
enzyme responsible for the hormonal reaction that causes seborrhea; pam extract, a natural extract of grapefruit Skin Blends offers a Clear Skin home care system that relies
seed; burdock extract, vitamin B8, zinc salts; and other upon benzoyl peroxide in varying degrees along with alpha active ingredients formulated to act on hyperkeratinization.
and beta hydroxy acids to cleanse and clear acneic skin. A The line includes Ultra-Matte Moisturizing Fluid; mask of sulfur, bentonite, kaolin and zinc oxide heals while Intense Regulating Serum; Deep-Cleansing Absorbent a serum containing sulfur, zinc, willowbark, yeast green tea Mask; and Thalgodermyl Purifying Extracts. Contact: and botanicals controls and calms. A 1% hydrocortisone 800/228-4254 (East); 800/GO-THALGO (West); lotion counteract the harsh effect of repeated benzoyl perox- ide use. Contact: 877/754-6253; www.skinblends.com.
Yon-Ka taps Mother Nature in providing three acne products
Skin Sense's Oxygen Botanicals products are formulated
containing essential oils and herbal extracts to calm, bal- with plant-based collagen, elastin and vitamins to coax the lance, heal and asepticize. They are Juvenil (with ichthiol), skin into its natural, healthiest state. Unwanted bacteria and Emulsion Pure and the purifying Crème 15. Contact: inflammation is challenged with chamomile, echinacea, of sebum. However, they do the job in a more sophisticat-ed manner, taking into account considerations like effec-tiveness of delivery and proper combining of ingredients.
"An ingredient can help or harm depending on the base ofthe product," points out Dr. Lees. "Always ask, ‘What is itfloating in?'" Most experts agrees that sebum-controlling ingredients such as salicylic acid, alpha-hydroxy acid and benzoyl per-oxide still belong in today's acne products. However, somewould like to see these used differently. "Ingredients that dowork for acne are known agents that need to be reconfig-ured in their physical/chemical structures, hosted inadvanced emulsions, adjusted in their concentrations anddelivered in an improved manner," says Dr. Christian Jurist,Medicalia. "Some examples of these are spherulites—a deliv-ery technology in which ingredients are time-released intothe skin—and advanced tri-phase microemulsions, whichoffer better product stability and penetration." Dr. Lees relies on a "good follicular exfoliant" along with staples such as salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. However,there is a caveat: "I'll only reach for the benzoyl peroxide when there's bacterial acne with pustules, and even then, I don't useit for long because it's a free radi-cal," he warns. Heathman also sup-ports use of these ingredients, butnotes the importance of hydrationin the treatment mix. "Hyaluronicacid is a natural substance of our skin needed for healthy cellproliferation and recovery from acne," she says.
GlyMed's treatmentprotocol includesHydro Gel HA, aformula extractedfrom pure plantsources to help feedthe skin.
A consistent night
and day home care
regimen often does
the trick—but
requires compliance
tesy Mark Lees Skin Care and patience from
the client.
"The newer trends are definitely less aggressive and more natural Murad's approach seeks
to address the inflam-
matory nature of acne
extra stratum corneum but the exfoliation needs to be gen- with calming ingredi-
tle. Professional AHA treatments and enzyme treatments ents along with
that also reduce inflammation are good," he advises. "At our spa we use lots of anti-irritants in facial treatments for Dr. Jurist reminds skincare professionals that antibiotics are not the only resource for fighting microbes. "Antiseptics in Another logical reason for the anti-inflammatory product formulas work very well; some keratolytic agents have approach is that a condition that appears to be acne may proven effective for decades," he points out. "When ingredi- actually be another condition that's also characterized by ents like these are included in not just one, but several prod- redness and inflammation. "People may say they have acne ucts in a regimen of skin care, great results are observed— when they don't," notes Dr. Murad. "They may have folli- without the feared side effects of some prescriptions." culitis or eczema." These people are likely to respond best Approach #3: Fighting Inflammation. "The main
to an anti-inflammatory approach. problem with acne is the red bumps," states Dr. Murad.
While treating acneic clients with gentle, healing meth- "We may as well call it ‘red bump disease.'" Murad recom- ods, make sure they don't stray from their regimen to "try mends a comprehensive regimen of home care, profession- something stronger." This can re-trigger the inflammatory al care and supplementation—all with an anti-inflamma- process and, over time, do serious harm. "The use of strong, tory emphasis. "Traditional treatments such as salicylic irritating inflammatory agents and procedures can actually acid and vitamin A are good but, beyond that, we need to weaken the skin's natural healing mechanism," points out Dr.
soothe and calm with ingredients like chamomile, licorice, Jurist. "The newer trends are definitely less aggressive and aloe vera and arnica, among many others," he says.
more natural—holistic—in the approach to this disorder." ◆ For professional treatment, Murad reminds estheticians to use extra care with acneic clients, especially when Linda Kossoff is managing editor and Linda W. Lewis is execu- administering exfoliation. "It's necessary to remove the tive editor of DAYSPA.

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