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Category Report: Toiletries & Personal Care Own label is gaining a significant hold in the
diverse toiletries and personal care market,
where price is often the overriding factor for
consumers. Chloe Ryan reports
Behaviour learnt during a
recession can be hard to shift. It is particularly noticeable in a Just look at how engrained was large and diverse category like the careful consumption of the toiletries and personal care that generation who came of age during includes products such as cotton pads, the Second World War, lifelong deodorant, facial tissue, body lotions, retailers and pound shops has frugality shaped by the constraints of moisturisers, nappies, perfumes, facilitated this cost cutting, she notes. razors, shaving creams, talcum Consequently, many products in this The sharp shift in consumer powder, toothpaste and wet wipes. category, particularly those which behaviour that happened in the The category primarily has a are seen as basic staples, have aftermath of the 2008 crash has also functional reputation, with basic struggled to innovate, focusing become habitual for many. Former hygiene the main product instead on offering good value. Sainsbury's chief executive Justin King As Libby points out: "In soap, described it at the time as "savvy Consumers have became bath and shower (SBS) products, slow shopping"; for some it was a case of "accustomed to saving money on basic growth of just 0.6 per cent was seen having to choose between heating and hygiene essentials," Charlotte Libby, in 2015, a slowdown from the previous eating. In the uncertain wake of the senior beauty analyst, writes in year as consumers switched to Brexit referendum, this careful Mintel's Soap, Bath & Shower products cheaper formats. Based on the behaviour may be engrained yet 2016 report. The growth of discount current economic climate, the SBS Autumn 2016
during 2014-15, according to Mintel data. incontinence products. "Within a One example of this is couple of years, the taboo has fallen Waitrose's orchid and honeysuckle away almost entirely," says Van bodywash, which is part of the retailer's ‘Flower Garden' range of According to Mintel data, the fragrances used in its own-label market for incontinence products in toiletries, and is certified vegan. Asda's the UK grew 12.8 per cent between 2014 private label range N Spa also includes and 2015, up from £115.6 million to a superfruit blueberry shower and £130.4m in the space of a year. This bath gel and a golden honey body compares to the larger UK market of scrub. Another hope for growth is the sanitary protection, worth £289m in slew of new in-shower treatments, such 2014, which declined four per cent over as moisturisers and self-tans, which the year and was worth £277.5m. could help reposition the category "Kimberly-Clark made an advert away from its value proposition. where people were biking in the Other areas of the toiletries streets wearing underpants," says Van market are also seeing innovation. Bart Malderen. He argues this kind of Van Malderen is chief executive of taboo-busting marketing, along with Drylock Technologies, which genuine improvements in the manufactures own-label nappies, effectiveness of incontinence incontinence products and sanitary products, has helped the market protection. It has developed and mushroom. "The products are so slim patented very thin "fluffless" nappies now you can wear the pants under and incontinence products, which use tight jeans and nobody will know market will struggle to see significant no cellulose fibres. about it and this really means the growth over the next year. Shower While the market for nappies difference between staying at home products… have seen sales slip as and sanitary towels is fairly stable in and going out for a walk or to the consumers look to save money on line with the population, there has been movies. There are good products now, everyday essentials while trying a rapid growth in the market for extremely thin, comfortable, flexible newer innovations in the bath and soap categories." Overall, more than a quarter of adults buy the cheapest available soap, bath and shower products, with no brand loyalty, Mintel data shows. Own-label products are most likely to be bought by parents. Data shows that among parents of under-16s, 12 per cent buy own label and 37 per cent both branded and own label, "driven by a desire to save money on products with a high frequency of use among children," says Libby. That's not to say there hasn't been innovation in this market. Diet trends have influenced new fragrances and formulations, with numerous new superfood-inspired fragrances such as Manuka honey, herbs and superfruits. Vegan claims on NPD also increased 51 per cent Autumn 2016
Category Report: Toiletries & Personal Care Although manufacturers have gradually moved over from cellulose, which is bulky and derived from wood pulp, to thinner superabsorbent polymers, Drylock was the first manufacturer – including all the major brands – to remove all cellulose fibres. "So it is less bulky, very slim, and highly absorbent," Van Malderen says. "The product used to be 75g and very thick, but today it is something like 32g to 33g and very thin. In our opinion this evolution hasn't come to an end yet. We designed the line and in 2012 we invested in a brand new plant in the Czech Republic and we started producing. Fluffless is a net gain for this was manifested in incidents of the ecology. It is thinner and it is more Within the UK, there is also some ‘rationing' of incontinence products by comfortable," says Van Malderen. evidence, according to Euromonitor's health professionals. As a direct result, After developing fluffless April 2016 report Incontinence in the a significant minority of consumers nappies, the company extended into United Kingdom, that the government's increasingly turned to the retail adult incontinence products, with the austerity measures have inadvertently market to fulfil unmet demand," the same strategy: some fluffless and boosted the market. "As local NHS some low-fluff products to cover the trusts faced significant cuts to their Drylock's product range whole market. And more recently, the procurement budgets, trade sources includes Lidl's Toujours nappies, which company extended into the ‘femcare' reported a contraction in the volume have won numerous awards for market, buying a sanitary towel firm in and value of incontinence products absorbency and effectiveness, Italy. "So now, in a nutshell, we have a supplied to patients across the competing against more expensive, full range of baby products, a full country. In some extreme instances, branded products. range of adult inco products, and a Dry shampoo outpaces regular shampoo
According to Superdrug, the drive for convenient products has led to a big upsurge in demand for dry shampoos. In 2015 sales of dry shampoo saw an uplift of 14 per cent in comparison to regular shampoo sales. Sales of dry shampoo are continuing to increase, while regular shampoo sales are slowing down as customers are choosing a convenient option to freshen up their hair. "Dry shampoo has been on the rise for the past five years and shows no signs of slowing down," says Allen Webb, Superdrug senior buyer for hair. "Our customers are opting for a convenient and easy solution to spruce up their hair on the go." Photo: Edward Hands The trend shows no sign of easing up, so Superdrug has introduced a new dry shampoo zone in all stores to keep up with demand. As well as the major brands, Superdrug's own brand is stocked. "Dry shampoo is catching up with regular shampoo and we're adapting the way we showcase our products to help customers find the right product for them," says Webb. Autumn 2016
Category Report: Toiletries & Personal Care Will black toothpaste be
the next big thing?
Weckerle Cosmetics Eislingen is a
full range of femcare products, which like toilet paper." German manufacturer that supplies we sell into two markets, the retailers' As Mintel reported in March own-label toothpaste to retail private label and the institutions, 2016, sales of toilet paper are customers across Europe. The oral hospitals and elderly homes." tumbling, largely due to average care market is fairly stable, Growth in this market will be prices reducing, driven by the according to Randolf Tolkmitt- driven by "innovation, innovation and discounters. Over the past five years Lehmann, general manager of innovation," Van Malderen says, the toilet tissue market has declined sales, R&D and marketing, and namely making products even thinner, from £1.2 billion in 2011 to £1.1bn in 2015, growth is therefore mainly more comfortable, and more wiping six per cent off the market focussed on launching innovative absorbent. "We have to be careful it value. In the last year alone, despite new flavours or ingredients. doesn't become a commodity, so we an increase in the population and a "The market is hungry for new have to innovate, otherwise the subsequent rise in the number of things," he says. "Customers want to retailers will call us and ask us what is households, sales of this household experience something beyond mint the price of the day. It mustn't become essential fell by two per cent. in the morning. If they have the opportunity to experience a limited edition product, some whole category is extraordinary flavour, or colour, facing. There are they want that." bright spots in this Recent examples from the past year include grapefruit-flavoured toothpaste, and spicy variants such as cinnamon and clove. Another trend in Germany at the moment, which Tolkmitt-Lehmann anticipates will spread across Europe, is continuing price charcoal toothpaste, which is black. Weckerle has launched several charcoal toothpaste products, including one incorporating red, yellow and black stripes to mimic the German flag.
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